Panel Wiring Methods

The part of the installation often overlooked by system designers is the method in which the panels on the roof are to be wired.  If the wires become loose, it is possible that they will fray if wind underneath the array happens to cause the insulation to rub against the asphalt shingles, which is basically as rough as sandpaper.


Aside from that, it's also important to accomplish the following, in your wiring methods:
  • Use the least amount of wire (cuts down on expenses and voltage drop)
  • Create the least amount of problems (cuts down on lost time wondering what to plug in).  
Think about it.  If you have 24 panels, and each one has two 2' leads, that's already 96' of wire, not in conduit, underneath your array.  Not to mention that there need to be wires that connect to those leads (the proverbial 'homeruns' mentioned elsewhere in this blog).  

These examples show you how to minimize the trouble involved in wiring panels.  What I learned as an installer is that there is an art to this procedure.  Being an appreciator of the arts, I thought this was noteworthy.  So I came up with a neat way of describing how to wire panels on the roof.  

Throughout this part, you'll see a yellow arrow, which essentially means "this panel is wired to that one."  If you wonder which lead is connected, the answer is at the end of the string.  


You'll find a square with a number at the beginning of a string.  This number represents the 'homerun' which is a lead that goes to the combiner box.  The grey colored square represents the grounded conductor of that string (see grounded conductor article for more info). 

At the end of a string, you will see a red box with a corresponding number.  That's the homerun for the ungrounded conductor.  Each set of arrows leads from a grey square to a red square, indicating which panels are wired to which other panels.  So here we go. 



Here is a simple roof.  The panels are wired in series of 8, as you can see, which is fortunate because they're also in rows of 8.  How convenient!  These are the types of situations that an installer generally likes to see, because it means that the process of preparing the roof for wiring is quite simple, compared to the next example.  As you can see, all of the grounded conductor homeruns are on the left, and all the ungrounded conductor homeruns are on the right, at the end of the rail. 

Let's take a look at a more complicated example. 


Here's a weird roof.  This one has all kinds of odd, peculiar stuff going on.  The two rows at the bottom need to be connected to rows above.  The method described in this illustration is far preferred, compared to other possible methods, for a few reasons.  
  • It doesn't involve lots of 'up & down' - - connecting panels to the ones above or below can make the wiring much more difficult and prone to problems later (and by later, I mean 25 years +).  Nothing makes an installation last longer than tight wiring from one panel that is directly next to another panel.  
  • It doesn't involve any connecting parts or diagonal wiring.  Panels generally can't connect diagonally without some stress put on the wire. 
This is an example of four panels that need to be wired together.  Despite how similar each example may appear, the one on the right is twice as easy for an installer to wire, and half as likely to have problems, because of fewer vertical crossings.  All that's involved is a different placement of the grounded conductor homerun in each example. 




USE-2 and THHN: WIre Insulation Types

Source: NEC
RHW-2 in this table is listed, and it's the same as USE-2, which is an outdoor-insulated wire, recommended to connect to the panels by all professionals in the PV industry.  Here is a table which states the number of said wires inside of EMT conduit.  Solar Panels have USE-2 wires coming from their j-boxes, and the connectors are made to create water-tight seals onto that type of outdoor insulation.  

In this table, it's noted that 8 of such wires can fit inside of 1" conduit, meaning that you can have a total of 4 strings entering a 1" conduit, or else you will have to up-size to 1 1/4, which will allow you to have 13, or a maximum total of 6 strings.

USE-2 is "Underground Service Entrance" and you can buy it from nearly any source of PV supplies.  It's coated with a blood thinner which acts as a way to keep animals from eating it (it's essentially covered in animal poison) so be careful with eating after you have handled USE-2 wire.  It's also UV resistant, and because of all this, it's much thicker than THHN wire, which is why fewer wires will fit inside of conduit.  You can run this type of wire from the panels to the combiner box.  

Source:  NEC Table C.1
By comparison, THHN and THWN and THWN-2, all conductors rated to be indoors or inside conduit, can fit up to 16 of the same #10 AWG conductors in 1" conduit.  It's also less expensive than USE-2, making it the wire of choice for installers to have inside of conduit.  

Source:  NEC Table C1

Calculating Hold-Down Strength

In order to ensure that your PV array is not going to fly away, you need to effectively ensure that it's connected adequately to the structure it's installed on.

That's done by using a chart like this one, which is provided by the Standard Handbook For Mechanical Engineers:


Each screw, usually a lag that fastens into the support of a rafter inside of the roof, has a different diameter. Different types of wood have different resistance strengths.  Each amount of allowable withdrawal is determined by 1" of threading inside that particular kind of wood.  For example:
  • A 3/8" lag through Southern Yellow Pine that is 2" long will have a withdrawal strength of 381x2, or 762 lbs.  
  • A 1/4" lag through Douglas Fir that is 3" long will have a withdrawal strength of 232x3, or 696 lbs.  
Let's also say that the plywood that separates the roof surface from the rafters is 3/4" thick.  You would need to subtract that 3/4" from the length of the screw.  

So how do you estimate whether a system has enough support to keep from flying away?  Wind speeds with force that is greater than 75 lbs/ft will cause the glass to shatter, thus creating a limit to how much hold-down strength the array needs.  

You can take the area of your array, in square feet.  Multiply the 75 lbs/sq.ft by a safety factor of 4.  That will help you determine that the array will require 300 pounds per foot of hold-down strength.  

Let's say that there are 30 solar panels, each with an area of 15 sq. feet.  That's 450 square feet. 
  • Determine the number of feet, attached with 3/8" screws 3" in length, that are required to hold the array in place to satisfy the requirements of hold-down strength.  The wood type is Southern Yellow Pine.  
450 x 75 = 33,750 lbs hold down strength required. 

Each screw is 3" at 3/8" diameter in yellow pine (381 x 3 = 1143 lbs per screw).  
Divide 33,750 by the 1143 per screw and you get 29.5, which is essentially 30. 

This particular example requires 30 footings in order to satisfy the requirements of hold-down strength.

Use this formula and these calculations for any array! 

Variables
You will find the example to use 75 lbs per square foot as the panel's weight load.  Find the information on panel specifications as listed by "load resistance."  Officially, you must also account for the depth of the plywood as not included by the amount of thread that is actually fastened into the rafters.

Counter-Ballast Systems
Instead of using the hold-down strength of screws, just calculate the weight of your counter-ballast (usually cinderblocks) and then determine how many cinderblocks you need, with the same formula.  (Square area of array, pounds per square foot of required hold-down strength determining number of required blocks).


References
Nabcep Study Guide
Handbook For Mechanical Engineers

Site Survey: 2 Roof Surfaces, Different Orientations.

A Site Survey is an estimate that contains the following information:
  • The size of a system, in Kw, based on the number of solar panels that can fit in the available area.
  • The type of recommended system components that will work with that number of panels.
  • The annual power produced by that system, based on regional factors. 
Here is an example of a site survey, which contains all of that information.
This image was made after all of the roof measurements were made.  This particular roof contained two separate roof surfaces, one facing southeast, and the other southwest.

There were areas of shading, one from a chimney and the other from an adjacent house.  Those areas were marked with a darker color.  This image was produced using Macromedia Flash 8, but the measurements were produced with a ladder and a tape measure.  The orientation of each roof surface was also noted, and the shading was determined by using a pathfinder.


Here are the actual pathfinder readings.  As you can see here, the perimeter indicates that during the shorter months of the year (November - February), there were some issues in the afternoon with the next door house, and the chimney.  That's why a 10% shading derating factor was utilized in the total estimate.  The Pathfinder is a useful device and they're relatively expensive, for a dome-shaped piece of plastic, although they are cheaper compared to electronic devices which produce the same information.

Once the size of the system was determined using the available area on the roof, the next step was to estimate the power that the system would produce over the course of a year.


Since the system was facing southeast and southwest, respectively, each array faced a .96 derating factor (for not being perfectly south at 30°), and then an additional 10% was subtracted from the panel STC for shading.

The wattage rating of the selected panels (Sunpower 230's) were multiplied by their number (there were 18 on one roof, 24 on the other).



Other factors, such as irradiation in the region (in CT, it's 4.5) and the standard 75% derating factor was applied.  The result was an annual estimate of 28 kwh per day, saving the homeowner an average of $180 per month.

One Line Diagram.  Grounding Not Displayed.


The Book!


Design your own system from scratch, using the information on this blog.
It's not that tough!  You can even make your own board game.

Solar is not that difficult to understand.  The awesome photos in the background were taken by the same installer who wrote all the content.  Using the knowledge base from 3 years of field experience, Sunpower Certification, State Certification, and references recommended by NABCEP, this book gives the average homeowner a good sense of whether a photovoltaic system will be enough for your electrical energy needs.

There's a lot of talk about whether it's financially worth it to invest in Solar energy.  I don't think there could possibly be a better thing to invest in, this day and age.  Even the stock market can't guarantee the returns that a PV system can.  It's inevitable that electrical costs are going to rise in the future.  There is nothing more comforting than knowing that your price has been locked in the payback of a system that you bought years ago.

PV panels can last up to 50 years, and some are guaranteed to last with lengthy warranties of 25 years provided by some manufacturers (namely, Sunpower).  Inverters usually last 10-15 years.

There's never been a better time than now, and the technology is ready for consumption.  Many people are led to believe that it's not ready yet, but there are plenty of homeowners with systems that work great, and have their energy prices locked for probably the rest of their lives.

Check out the book and think about investing in your photovoltaic system!

System Design Checklist

You're preparing your home for a photovoltaic system, and you are doing research about how to go about that process.

There's a ton of information online about Solar Electricity, not all of it useful.  I hope that you find the information on this website to be an exception, because my intent really isn't to sell you anything.  I really just want to share the things that I've learned from building and designing systems.  I want you to feel confident that PV will work.

If you are interested in assessing your own home, and you think that you're able to take measurements, here's what you can do:

Collect Data
  1. Determine your home's orientation, using a compass.  (south, or 180°, is optimal).  
  2. Find the southernmost facing roof surface, and determine its pitch with an inclinometer.
  3. Measure the area of that roof surface.  Be safe.  You can also measure the house perimeter.
  4. Pick a type of solar panels, and use those dimensions to determine how many panels will fit
Additional Data:
  • What is the busbar rating of your main service panel?  (100, 200, 250 are common). 
  • What is the main breaker rating of your service panel? (The top breaker that shuts all power off)
  • What is the spacing of rafters in your roof?  Is it a truss system?  (structural system)
  • How much shading is in your environment? (a pathfinder might be useful).  
Estimate Power

Once you can determine how many panels will fit, you can then multiply the number of panels by their STC wattage to determine what the wattage of your system will be.

Panels x Peak Power = "Max Rating" (the laboratory rating of your system at maximum power).  

For example, if you can fit 30 x SPR-230 panels, that's technically 6900 watts, or a 6.9 KW system.

Next, take your 6.9 KW number and perform the following calculations:
  • Subtract the percentage that will be shaded.  If no shade, skip this step.
  • Subtract the percentage that derates the system by orientation and angle.
  • Take 75% of whatever's left. 
Let's say that your 6.9 KW system has 10% shading, it faces Southeast, and the roof is 30°
Southeast at 30° is 96% efficient.

6.9 x .90 x .96 x .75 = 4.4 kw

The 75% factor is an industry-standard practice recommended by Sunpower and other agencies, to keep your estimates from being too high.  Typically, other factors such as dust and debris on the panels, as well as voltage drop in the wiring and inverter efficiency, will subtract from the production of the system.  By taking a conservative estimate, you allow yourself some room.

Your new rating is 4.4 KW

Next:  Factor Your Insolation

Depending on the part of the country you're in, this system will perform differently.  You can find this information from the National Renewable Energy Laboratory Red Book.  Most of the country is between 4 and 6 w/m².  In this case, let's say we are in an area that has a rating of 5 w/m².

4.4 kW multiplied by 5 w/m² is 22

That number essentially represents the average amount of KWH per day that you can expect from your system on an annual basis.


Of course, that's going to fluctuate depending on what time of year it is, but that's why NREL provides annual averages for irradiance, because it's the best way of estimating your system's potential, with all the varying factors of sunlight energy potential throughout the year.  Annually, you can expect to see:


22 kWh x 365 = 8,030 kWh.  Therefore you have estimated your home to be capable of producing 8,000 kWh, or 8 megawatt-hours, of power, annually.  At 22¢, that's $1766 in savings per year.

This formula is used standard by professionals in estimating the annual production of the systems that they sell to people across the US.  You can try it yourself if you'd like.  Remember to account for your own factors, as listed by the information that you gather about your home's orientation, angle of your roof, the area shading, your region's irradiation, plus the type and number of solar panels that you wish to install.

See more site surveys for more detailed information about estimating energy potential.

Determing Shade

Shading can be bad for a system.  There are different kinds of shading, which are determined by the level of focus of the shade.  For example, "soft shade" is from far-away objects, whereas "hard shade" comes from objects that are closer to the solar panels. 

If you're trying to determine just how much shading is going to occur on your roof, then you can get into using a device like a Solar Pathfinder.


Here are what obstructions appear like, when you are using a Pathfinder:


If you don't have a pathfinder, it would be not as accurate but you can guess your shading.  Many people seriously considering systems will effectively analyze their roof for shading just by observing it year-round, and you can't beat that.  If you check right around the holiday season, to see where all the shadows fall on your roof, then you will probably have an idea of the worst of your shading issues.

Or you can get a pathfinder!  It's entirely up to you.

Where Should I Put My Inverter?

If you have an inverter, then you're probably thinking, where should I put it?  The answer is not in any old place!  There needs to be a specific place for it to be installed.

The illustrations below correspond with the circles in the illustration above.  To summarize, you want your inverter at a location where it's not near any fuel storage, not in direct sunlight, and typically with the rest of your home's electrical equipment.  


Is My House Good For Solar?

Some homes are better suited for solar electricity than others, but every home can have solar panels installed on it.

It does depend on how much you're willing to change your situation, if the situation is not ideal.  Even if we installed solar electrical systems on the 25% of homes that are completely ideal, wouldn't that make the world better?  Of course it would!

The factors that most determine a home's ability to produce its own solar energy have much to do with its orientation and angle, as well as shading.  Solar panels will work anywhere, but they need to be in a place where they can receive direct sunlight, year round.

Trees can shade your panels, causing your system to lose power somewhat.  So can other obstructions on your roof, such as vent pipes and chimneys.


  • Are your shingles in good shape?
Don't get solar if your roof is all busted and your chimney is falling down.  Fix your chimney and replace your roof before you consider getting solar panels, otherwise every installer is going to look at your house and say, "No way!  We're not going to be responsible if there's a problem with it leaking because of your old, cruddy roof."

  • Is your house's electrical system sufficient?
If your home contains wire that is insulated with cloth, then chances are you need to have an electrician come in and rewire your house.  If your service panel looks like a ball of yarn that your cat was playing with, then you need to have your house rewired.  However, there is a general rule about service panels which determine whether your house is OK for solar.  

  • Is your house facing the right way? 
If the axis of your house runs in such a way that your roof surfaces face east and west, instead of north and south, it will compromise your energy somewhat.  For a list of those factors in the northeast part of America, check out this efficiency table:

this information is from NREL

As you can see with this table, if your house faces East and it's at a 30° angle, your solar array will only be able to produce 85% of what it's rated for.  If your roof can fit 4kw of panels, then, you can only expect your power to be 85% of 4kw at max, which is 3.4 kilowatts.  That's not too bad, anyways, for a roof that many professionals will tell you is facing the wrong way. 

It's not facing the wrong way, exactly.  It's just not facing the ideal way.  But that's okay, you can still get a system.  This chart just tells you what to expect. 

You can survey your own home for solar! 

Fun Macintosh Facts:
pressing shift+option+8 will produce the degree ° symbol

AC / DC

It's not just a cheesy band from England who played weird fast-paced music using weird voices.

The photoelectric effect is only able to produce DC power.  Your home works with AC electricity.  In order to change that power over to something your home can use, it requires the use of a device known as an inverter.

This page will explain a bit more about the differences between AC and DC electricity.

Alternating Current

AC is "Alternating Current"

AC electricity is manipulated using coils to induce a current that fluctuates from + to - in voltage at a certain number of times per second.  Meaning that 120v AC actually fluctuates from 120v+ to 120v- at a rate of 60 times per second (60 hertz).

Conductors

With AC current, you can complete a circuit with one conductor and a neutral, which does not conduct electricity.  The two-prong plug that goes into the wall everywhere you go?  One of those is the neutral, the other is a "line."

In a home, most devices are 120v AC, meaning that it is using one line.  Some devices are 240v, thus using two different lines to combine their voltages.  Inverters are typically 240v.

Benefits of AC Electricity


The main reason AC power is so popular is because it travels better over long distances since it is able to be "stepped up" and "stepped down" using transformers.  That's why the grid is AC power.

However you'll notice that many of your devices at home contain power adapters  which convert electrical energy back into DC again, because many electronic devices work using DC power.


Direct Current


DC power is direct current.  It does not fluctuate in polarity like AC power, nor can it operate with a single conductor.  It requires a positive and a negative wire in order to operate.

Without a way to induce AC current, electrical components like batteries and solar panels will only generate DC power.

Additional Reading:Grounding

External Links:
PBS Explains This Same Concept